Written By Gary Hynes Edibles / One ingredient Sep 22, 2011 Spiny dogfish makes history as first sustainable shark fishery SHARE VIA: Facebook Twitter Pinterest It takes strength to skin a dogfish. Chef Dan Hayes shows how it's done. Photo by P. Bagi Chef Dan Hayes at The London Chef Dan Hayes has fish cred. He earned that cred by working for some of the top seafood chefs (Rick Stein, Mitchell Tonks) in the UK— gutting, scaling, skinning and cooking every known and obscure fish that was served in their London restaurants. And now Hayes is campaigning to put all the wasted fish, unintentionally caught as bycatch in the BC commercial and sport fisheries, to better use. Specifically, he is talking about the unloved dogfish, a particularly nasty-looking, difficult-to-breakdown, small shark found in west coast waters. “Until the methods of fishing are improved, dogfish will continue to be caught and discarded as trash. They can’t be thrown back. So I say, let’s use them.” Says Hayes, “If you want to look at sustainability, people will look at dogfish and see it’s black-listed because it’s susceptible to over-fishing, but the fact is these fish are already being caught in the commercial fishery and are dead. Until the methods of fishing are improved, dogfish will continue to be caught and discarded as trash. They can’t be thrown back. So I say, let’s use them.” “it’s really, really good. It’s an excellent fish.” British Columbians aren’t eating all these dogfish and Hayes has an idea as to why. “It’s not an easy fish to deal with. Possibly, one of the main reasons that dogfish isn’t utilized is it’s not salmon, it’s not halibut—you can’t just slap it on a grill. It’s quite hard to prepare. You have to skin it and peel it, but once you get there, you’re fine.” In the UK, dogfish is known as Huss or Rock Salmon. They are often used in fish ‘n’ chips. “It stays very moist,” says Hayes, “while halibut can dry out during frying.” I watch as Hayes demonstrates how to clean and prepare dogfish. Although tricky to work with (“you need to know its anatomy”), once the fillets are prepped you have a beautiful, fresh fish that resembles a long, white with an almost pinkish tinge, eel. Hayes is cooking two of his favourite recipes using dogfish for me—the first is his take on a British-style fish fry; the other is an Italian-inspired, dogfish osso buco. When I taste the results, I’m impressed. The fish is delicious—soft, delicate and moist—and I’m amazed we don’t eat more of it. “I think the important thing to remember about using dogfish is we aren’t cubing up rubbish and trying to make the most of it; it’s really, really good. It’s an excellent fish.” • Buy it at Satellite Fish Co Ltd – 2550 Beacon Ave, Sidney, BC, 250-656-2642. Call ahead to find out when the boats are coming in. Or watch the London Chef website for upcoming classes. Dogfish Osso Buco ChefscookingdogfishEdiblesschoolsshark SHARE VIA: Facebook Twitter Pinterest Written By: Gary Hynes Gary Hynes, a writer and photographer, founded EAT magazine in 1998 and is its editor and chief paperboy. He studied Electronic Music with Samuel Dolan at Toronto’s Royal Conservatory of Music, Audio Recording Technology at ... Read More You may also like Recipes / SH December 19, 2014 Holiday Baking: All Loaf Pans Are Not Created Equal I’m not sure how you approach your kitchen gear acquisitions, but in my house, baking pans hold a pitiful position on the hierarchy of wares. After ... Read More Recipes December 19, 2014 EAT’s New Tourtière Every year my family makes tourtière for Christmas. I love it because it’s tradition, not because it’s my favourite thing in the world to eat. ... Read More Pantry December 12, 2014 Four Regions of Chinese Food, Part 1: Les Chan. Part of the interest in chasing down different articles for Eat Magazine is that I never know where I am going to end up when I start my ... Read More Must Have / Restaurants December 11, 2014 Winter Comfort Foods: Congee You know a food has jumped the shark when there’s an entire line of inspirational self-help books about it. Much to my family’s chagrin, this is ... Read More Recipes December 11, 2014 Cauliflower: A Classy Comeback Move over kale, cauliflower is in town and she’s looking mighty fine. In the past year, cauliflower has edged itself to the front of the plate, ... Read More How to Cook December 10, 2014 On Throwing a Fondue Party At 5:22 pm, in advance of a party that starts at 7:00, I am sitting in my kitchen and drinking a glass of Prosecco, trying to decide how things are ... Read More Comments are closed.