Burdock & Co.

VANCOUVER

The opening of another restaurant with a local-sustainable bent isn’t necessarily news, but when the chef/owner is the likes of Andrea Carlson, the buds perk up in anticipation—and rightly so. Burdock & Co. is Carlson’s first venture as both owner and chef, and is as pure an expression of her principles about food as I have ever tasted. Carlson’s former EC stints at Raincity Grill and Bishop’s honed her trademark style of refined yet approachable dishes, and that style is unleashed in full at Burdock.

Even the room is in line with the culinary ethos. Reclaimed rough planks are staggered on one wall in seemingly random but cohesive patterns. More reclaimed wood graces the bar at the back of the long narrow room. Cocktail glasses are housed in an old-fashioned medicine cabinet and small, black and white hexagonal tiles create a baseboard of sorts for the bar. It’s an open concept and kitchen, with comfortable high top and banquet seating, and a large communal table at the front that encourages friendly shoulder-rubbing with one’s neighbours.

The menu overall is one of balance, with an emphasis on clean, crisp flavours and not too many ingredients on plate. Roasted green farro ($10) is made extraordinary with the addition of fermented black garlic, an ingredient I am tempted to knock back like bar nuts. Despite the focus on vegetables—lots of vegan and vegetarian dishes for herbivores—there’s plenty of meat on the menu. Fresh oysters ($15) out of the shell are topped with finger lime “caviar” and small, almost sweet radishes. An apple and verbena sorbet lends subtle herbal notes to contrast with the briny quality of the mollusks. Fried chicken and pickles ($12) might sound odd, but is a tender, moist plate of crispy strips sided with lightly pickled beets and onions, with a drizzle of charred chili vinegar to counteract the richness of the meat.

The drinks menu is equally focused. Bittered Sling bitters and local sake muddle with gin and fresh herbals for delicate, food-friendly cocktails and “natural” craft brews and organic wines round things out nicely. There are even some hooch-free concoctions for designated drivers or confirmed teetotallers.

Open daily from 5pm. No reservations.

2702 Main St. | 604.879.0077 | www.burdockandco.com

images courtesy of the Burdock & Co website