What to DRINK With That : Modern UK Gastropub Fare

DRINK editor Treve Ring asks local wine experts how they would approach pairing dishes and flavours.

Heading into fall, we’re thinking comfort foods. What’s more comforting that a British pub? One with great food. I’ve selected two dishes from modern UK gastropubs for this edition.

Our Experts:

Sally Campa (SC)
General Manager – Vino Volo, Vancouver International Airport

Sally Campa is both a trained chef from the celebrated Dubrulle International Culinary and Hotel Institute of Canada and an ISG certified Sommelier. Sally spent 15 years as a personal chef and caterer before turning to wine full-time in 2007.  Following three years in wine retail in Vancouver, she returned to the restaurant industry in 2012 to open the Vino Volo locations at YVR, where she is the General Manager and Sommelier.

Andy Johnston (AJ)
Owner, Averill Creek Vineyards

In 2002 Andy established Averill Creek Vineyard on the south slope of Mt Prevost. with the sole goal to become one of the premium Pinot Noir producers in Canada. Over the past 15 years Andy has worked to identify and develop the best varieties for this cool climate oenological area of Cowichan Valley, helped to establish new techniques of viticulture for this area in order to improve the fruit quality and establish the Cowichan Valley as the best area in Canada to grow pinot noir.

What to DRINK With: Corned Beef Terrine with Brown Ale Jelly

SC. Corned beef terrine has a wonderful texture with rich condensed flavors.  It will require a wine that can align with its weightiness.  I would head straight to the region of Alsace for this dish, and reach for an aged Grand Cru pinot gris.  The opulence from the age and quality of wine, combined with complex notes of spice, honey and hints of exotic fruit, will offer a lively roundness to the dish. Pinot gris from this climate retains enough natural acidity to balance the succulence of the terrine. The developing flavours of an aged pinot gris will lend mushroom and gingerbread notes, which will truly bring it home with the accompanied Brown Ale Jelly.

AJ. These are big strong flavors and requires a similar wine to match. For a local flavour, marechal foch/cab-foch from Vancouver Island would be ideal. The blackcurrant, dark plum, smoky, cedar box aromas will marry well with this dish.

What to DRINK With : Jowl of Tamworth pork with black pudding and smoked parsnip

SC. This entree is packed full of rich unctuous character.  Pairing it with a Sonoma County syrah will result in a marriage of perfection.  Syrah from this region is remarkably powerful and intensely aromatic. With savoury notes, black pepper and wild berry profiles, these wines are stacked and layered just as this dish.  The deep clove and nutmeg hints from the black pudding will stand to the meaty, smoky, chewy aspects from syrah. I gravitated towards a Sonoma syrah here, as these are typically leaner in demeanor then those of Northern Rhone.  The mineral character and bright acidity will break through the succulence of the Pork Jowl.  Sonoma syrah can show incredible finesse in its youth, along with textural brilliance, just as the components of this mouth watering entrée.

AJ. Another very rich plate with powerful flavors, the black pudding and parsnip predominating. syrah/ grenache/cinsault from Languedoc / Southern Rhone valley would be my choice. A little acidity combined with big fruit would go a long way to complementing this dish and cutting through the lardo in the pork jowl.