Edible Canada Gets Smoked, Truffles’ Tea and Joey’s Spring Fling


left: Joey bomboloni with lemon curd and mascarpone cream. right: Truffles afternoon tea. Photos by Anya Levykh

Edible Canada at the Market recently hosted George Siu and Park Heffelfinger of Memphis Blues BBQ. The duo created a five-course menu featuring their new line of rubs, including a fresh beach oyster chargrilled in Memphis butter. It was chased down with their version of a Caesar, made from Pemberton Distillery’s Schramm’s potato vodka with a dry rub rim. Mussels in wine and smoky chicken broth came with smoked sausages, shallots and garlic, plus “healthy” sides of duck fat frites. The only thing missing was more bread to sop up the broth. And while this isn’t exactly health food, I felt a healthy appetite develop the more I ate.


The showstopper was the smoked whole hog, seasoned with the Memphis all-purpose rub, and sided with coleslaw and fresh-baked cornbread. The boys are legends at all things smoked and brined, and the coleslaw is no exception, with a piquant taste that smacks of a bit of chili and a lick of sweet.


Edible at the Market has a regular series of these guest chef market dinners, with at least two each month. See the website for details.


Truffles Serves Tea and Treats at VanDusen


Truffles Fine Foods, known in film circles for their high-quality catering outfit, has launched a new café in the recently opened visitor’s centre at VanDusen Botanical Garden. It is perhaps the most unusual café in Vancouver, for one reason: it has a former Relais & Chateaux chef, one Reto Ballat, at the helm. Ballat was formerly EC at Post Hotel in Lake Louise, Alberta and the attention to detail translates fairly well into this more casual setting. Everything—from sandwiches and scones, to macarons and tarts—is made fresh daily, the honey is VanDusen’s own, the tea is the fair trade and organic MoTeas from the Okanagan, and the coffee is presided over by master barista Massimo Perego.


They have also recently started serving afternoon tea, at the very reasonable price of $28 for two people, or $50 for four (served daily until closing). Forget tiny, crustless sandwiches and miniature pastries. The sandwiches are served full-sized (selection varies depending on the day), croissants are cut in half, and the only miniatures are the very nice macarons. Even on a rainy day, this is sure to be a popular place, thanks to the amazing wall of windows that overlook the garden, and the streamlined décor inside.


Joey Restaurants Spring Fling


There are chains, and then there are Chains. The Joey Chain of restaurants is lucky to have one Chris Mills presiding over its kitchens as EC. This talented chef (who has been invited twice to cook at James Beard House in New York), always has a thing or two up his sleeve, and this season, it’s fairly protein-heavy. Newcomers include an absolutely phenomenal beef dip ($16.99) marked by tender slices that practically disintegrate at the touch of the chompers, and a housemade French bun that holds its structure, despite repeated dunkings. Another winner was the chicken market salad ($15.99), with housemade rotisserie chicken (you can also order it on its own), shaved veg, feta, almonds, wild rice and avocado. The doughnut craze has definitely hit here as well, with big, warm bomboloni ($5.99) making an appearance on the dessert menu, sided with lemon curd and mascarpone cream.



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Anya Levykh was born on the shores of the Black Sea, in what was formerly the USSR. The cold, Communist winters were too much for her family, and, before she was four feet tall, they had left for warmer climes in the south of ...

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