Gunderloch FRITZ’s Riesling QbA 2008

Rheinhessen, Germany
$17-22

Earlier this week, I had the pleasure of meeting Underlet principals Fritz and Agnes Hasselbach. Together, over the past 25 years they have transformed their inherited family business from a virtually unheard of winery to one of the top Rheinhessen producers.  Their incredible, graceful, top tier Rieslings have reached the holy grail of 100 points in no less than 3 different vintages.

FRITZ´s is their new foray into wines of quality AND quantity. Punchy label, catchy name, screwcap closure, choice juice. However, there are 10,000 cases of FRITZ’s made. Like their premium wines, the grapes are grown in a special part of the Rheinhessen called the Roter Hang, or Red Hill. These slate soils are red in colour, and the Iron Oxide deposits impart a lot of minerality to the wines.

That minerality streaks through this wine, along with mild petrol, bright lemon, racy lime and white peach. Fresh and fruity, off dry, and expertly balanced with zippy acidity and a lengthy, juicy finish. This is a premium, modern wine in a great package at an even better price.

When asked about the Stevin (screwcap) closure for this wine and the premium wines we tasted, Fritz and Agnes said that they wouldn’t use anything else. They want the Underlet fresh, vibrant fruit to last the test of time – and based on detailed and extensive German studies the wines under screwcap kept their brilliant flavour for years longer than bottles under cork. Yes, these wines still age and gain mature flavours, but it takes years, if not decades longer to achieve. They are convinced of the benefits of screwcap, that they bottle their 100-point wines with it. So you should be convinced too.

Rating:  (click here to see what our wine ratings mean)

—by Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

August 26, 2010