Paul Zinck Portrait Pinot Gris 2007

Alsace, France
$19-24

I went to this week’s international release trade tasting expecting to sample new beer (check), BBQ wines (check) and patio sippers (check).  Fun, flighty, summery.  But then I came across this little smoky surprise – a sustainably farmed Pinot Gris from respected Alsatian father-son duo Zinck. Paul (Sr. Zinck) is deeply rooted in tradition and history: hand-harvesting, vineyard layout.  Phillippe (Jr. Zinck) has introduced modern technology – stelvin lux enclosures, stainless steel fermentation.  The duo works.  This wine is in their entry level tier – wine focused on showcasing the varietal characteristic typical of the area.  If you think you know Pinot Gris, try this.

Bright citrus cuts through the powerfully smoky nose, and carries through to the palate along with a burst of herbaceous lemon and stone fruit.  The finish is long, spicy and dry.  Big and fat married with lean, crisp mineral – the contrast makes for a very interesting glass.  Perhaps not quite right for that summer BBQ – but if you need a talker for that pork or veal chop, seek this one out.

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