Vancouver Playhouse 2011: Day 2

image: César Saldaña, Director General of the Regulating Council of Jerez

Yesterday I got the first chance to dig deep into Spain, this year’s Theme Region. It’s challenging to talk about the wines of Spain as a whole, because their driving theme is diversity. From the fruity and crisp whites of Rías Baixas, to the apple fresh Cavas of Penedés, to the wood and time worn Riojas, to the bold and punchy reds of Toro (plus 2 dozen more DO’s). And that doesn’t even include the intriguingly alluring and highly addictive Sherry. Spain’s most famous fortified wine is experiencing a revitalization and rediscovery – from both the people of Spain, and around the world.

I was fortunate to sit in on a stunning sherry master class tasting led by a leading authority and educator, César Saldaña, Director General of the Regulating Council of Jerez. This captivating ambassador of Sherry gave a thorough and interesting lecture, before leading the trade group through a flight of 8 sherries. Each wine was unique in style, in provenance, in appearance, and flavour. Wildly different in flavour. All were excellent (especially with the unexpected ham, nuts and cheese they brought us to nibble on!), but my favourites were the Bodegas Hidalgo La Gitana Pastrana Manzanilla Pasada (bone dry, crisp, floral chamomile, bitter almond, light citrus), the Emilio Lustau Esquadrilla Solera Rare Amontillado (dry, burnished brown sugar nose, wood, toast and roasted nuts), and of course, the Gonzáles Byass Apóstoles Very Old Palo Cortado VORS (intense, lengthy and complex marmalade, earth, walnut richness).

I could have sat there all afternoon, content to mingle in the layers of flavours and history. But Playhouse is a powerhouse, and there’s no rest for the wicked, so it was a quick change and off to taste another iconic Spanish wine tradition – the legendary and iconic Vega-Sicilia. Bodegas Vega-Siciliais often referred to as Spain’s ‘First Growth’, likening it to Bordeaux’ exclusive and legendary chateaux.

Vega Sicilia has been the crowning glory of the Ribera del Duero for nearly 150 years, and their premium and classically majestic reds are among the best in the world. They were honoured with a wine dinner at West Restaurant, one of the jewels of Canada’s dining scenes. Pablo Álvarez, director of the winery and part of the proprietary family, was in attendance to discuss his wines. Of course Chef David Gunawan’s cuisine was exquisite, as always, but the way he and his team paired the food to complement the dish was extraordinary. Such was the case with the best pairing of the night (year?): Thiessen Farm Squab, grilled and then glazed with a pomegranate reduction, alongside osmanthus couscous salad, maitake mushroom, candied rose petals and barberry jus. This sweetly spiced, Moroccan kissed dish was paired with Vega-Sicilia  Alión 2006, a modern-styled Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) from Ribera del Duero. Of course the wine highlight was Unico 1999 – the flagship wine from the Bodegas, and well worth every accolade. Intense but elegant, with ever-evolving layers of dried cherry, fennel, spice, dusty cocoa, cedar wood spice and roasted notes.

Today I’m off to the trade tasting and the 928 wines that await me – ole!

I was fortunate to sit in on a stunning sherry master class tasting led by a leading authority and educator, César Saldaña, Director General of the Regulating Council of Jerez. This captivating ambassador of Sherry gave a thorough and interesting lecture, before leading the trade group through a flight of 8 sherries. Each wine was unique in style, in provenance, in appearance, and flavour. Wildly different in flavour. All were excellent (especially with the unexpected ham, nuts and cheese they brought us to nibble on!), but my favourites were the Bodegas Hidalgo La Gitana Pastrana Manzanilla Pasada (bone dry, crisp, floral chamomile, bitter almond, light citrus), the Emilio Lustau Esquadrilla Solera Rare Amontillado (dry, burnished brown sugar nose, wood, toast and roasted nuts), and of course, the Gonzáles Byass Apóstoles Very Old Palo Cortado VORS (intense, lengthy and complex marmalade, earth, walnut richness).

I could have sat there all afternoon, content to mingle in the layers of flavours and history. But Playhouse is a powerhouse, and there’s no rest for the wicked, so it was a quick change and off to taste another iconic Spanish wine tradition – the legendary and iconic Vega-Sicilia. Bodegas Vega-Siciliais often referred to as Spain’s ‘First Growth’, likening it to Bordeaux’ exclusive and legendary chateaux.

Vega Sicilia has been the crowning glory of the Ribera del Duero for nearly 150 years, and their premium and classically majestic reds are among the best in the world. They were honoured with a wine dinner at West Restaurant, one of the jewels of Canada’s dining scenes. Pablo Álvarez, director of the winery and part of the proprietary family, was in attendance to discuss his wines. Of course Chef David Gunawan’s cuisine was exquisite, as always, but the way he and his team paired the food to complement the dish was extraordinary. Such was the case with the best pairing of the night (year?): Thiessen Farm Squab, grilled and then glazed with a pomegranate reduction, alongside osmanthus couscous salad, maitake mushroom, candied rose petals and barberry jus. This sweetly spiced, Moroccan kissed dish was paired with Vega-Sicilia  Alión 2006, a modern-styled Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) from Ribera del Duero. Of course the wine highlight was Unico 1999 – the flagship wine from the Bodegas, and well worth every accolade. Intense but elegant, with ever-evolving layers of dried cherry, fennel, spice, dusty cocoa, cedar wood spice and roasted notes.

Today I’m off to the trade tasting and the 928 wines that await me – ole!