Written By Guest Writer Elsewhere / Places / Restaurants Nov 25, 2016 What’s up at the new Toscano’s Mediterranean Grill SHARE VIA: Facebook Twitter PinterestLast winter the venerable Toscano’s Trattoria in Comox changed hands. With Chef Kevin Frisch (formerly of Atlas Cafe and Locals, two highly esteemed establishments in this “local food” town) took the helm in the kitchen he told me he was moving beyond “Italian-type” food. His vision: to create a warm, social culinary experienced rooted in the ethos of the slow food movement that animates the “Italian culinary approach.” That means: freshest, closest-to-home ingredients. It means honouring the locale, not a fixed idea of what an “Italian” menu should be.Six months after our conversation, lots of time to put his plan into play, Chef Kevin invited me to sample a tasting menu. I brought friends, and we spent the better part of four hours enjoying 10 items.Culinary TourismTasting dinners are special events, culinary tours. The kitchen pulls out the stops. Some highlights: Roasted local beets with Qualicum goat cheese. Chilean-inspired crudo featuring BC tuna. House made spaghetti with carbonara sauce. Tannadice pork and Glen Alwin lamb. An Okanagan gamay noir. Lots of “local” cred.At the end, we faced – and finished – a platter of Island cheeses. Throughout our tour we were smacking our lips and telling each other how much we loved this, or that.Comfort foodsThe tasting menu was fun. But that’s not how I usually eat. I have my comfort foods. The spaghetti carbonara, for example, touched all of our sweet spots to the extent that after our Sunday afternoon walk Jenny I had only one thing on our mind: Toscano’s carbonara.As luck would have it, it was Chef Kevin’s day off. If the kitchen could echo our earlier experience, I’d be impressed.I was – but not just by the carbonara. All of our comfort food choices, including the roasted red pepper tapenade with house-made bread to start, through to the dessert, was impressive.Let’s start with the Caesar salad. Toscano’s set a new standard for me. Crisp, but dressed, with “edges” of the garlic, capers, anchovies, lemon all present and accounted for in a creamy base. It’s the Caesar salad I didn’t know I was missing.Then – the carbonara! Yes, it’s a simple dish. I’ve made it many, many times. But never like this. We all raved about it during the tasting dinner. Jenny and I raved about it again. Rich, creamy. So bacon-y. “It’s the best carbonara that I’ve ever had – since three days ago!” Jenny said.To finish, a compromise dessert. Because, Jenny told me, “You like chocolate more than than I do, and I like puddings more than I like chocolate.” So: chocolate mousse. And it was good. Dense. Rich. “Almost like pudding,” she said.This meal was all about comfort food. It didn’t explore new culinary territory. It stayed closer to home. And, it confirmed what the tasting dinner suggested: that Toscano’s Mediterranean Grill is now on my short list of best places to eat good food, local food in our region. And that’s a lovely thing to discover. – by Hans Peter Meyer Toscano’s Mediterranean Grill140 Port Augusta St, Comox, BC (250) 890-7575Website @hanspetermeyer on Twitter SHARE VIA: Facebook Twitter Pinterest Written By: Guest Writer We get many people writing guest articles for us, as well as past contributors. This is the Guest ... Read More You may also like Chefs / Culture / Destinations / Elsewhere / Travel May 7, 2019 An Introduction to Letters from Lyon to EAT I have spent my career thus far with a few goals in mind: climb the brigade of each kitchen I set foot in, put in my time and become “chef”. ... Read More Elsewhere / Travel March 23, 2017 April: Up Island News “The French say; “you never grow old at the table”, so let’s sit down, savour wonderful food together- and stop time.” ... Read More Elsewhere / Restaurants February 27, 2017 An Interview with Chef Renee Lavallee of Canteen in Nova Scotia Chef Renee Lavallee has worked in restaurants across the globe, and now calls Dartmouth, Nova Scotia home. After opening the successful sandwich shop ... Read More Elsewhere / First Look September 28, 2016 Biblio Taco Opens in Cumberland (home of the mountain biker) Ask a mountain biker if they have been to Cumberland, BC and you will probably see their eyes light up, ears go back like a dogs do and then a ... Read More Elsewhere / Reporter September 7, 2016 The Tofino Buzz | Sept & Oct 2016 Winding into fall is probably my favourite time of year in Tofino. The weather is still amazing, and there’s time to appreciate the town at a ... Read More Destinations / Elsewhere / Events May 31, 2016 Feastival is coming on June 17 & 18 “FEASTIVAL” is Nanaimo’s second annual festival celebrating the Island’s culinary culture. This year, the mid-Island’s food and beverage ... Read More Comments are closed.