Written By Treve Ring Elsewhere / Libations / Wine Feb 1, 2013 Wines of Worth: BC Sweet Wines SHARE VIA: Facebook Twitter PinterestSeems pretty simple – sweets for your sweetie. But remember – just like all sweeties are not created equal, nor are all sweets. Or rather, sweet wines. There are various styles, grapes, production methods, quality levels, price ranges and serving possibilities for sweeter wines. I’ve recommended some local sweet wines below, along with notes on the style – possible fodder for whispering sweet nothings in your sweetie’s ear. “I’m so pleased you like this icewine – it was harvested when the grapes were at -8C….”What – no other wine geeks out there?!Chocolates are cliché. What about swapping the heart shaped box for something that will get your Valentine’s heart (and palate) racing? Specialty dessert wine bottles are by far much fancier than a standard table wine bottle. A little tissue, possibly a ribbon – ok, fine – you can even pair some of these with chocolate if you want. These make for an easy Valentine’s gift, and for a perfect menu pairing. Of course, a little of these wines goes a long way, so there will be lots to share – with you! LATE HARVESTLate Harvest refers to wines made from grapes that were left on the vine past the end of regular harvest, and not picked until they are overly ripe. The longer the grapes stay on the vine, the greater opportunity for the raisinated fruit to build and swell with sugar. That is, of course, if the rains/frost/deer/birds/wasps don’t get to them first. The sugar-rich grapes naturally translate to a wine that is sweeter and higher in alcohol content.Hester Creek Estate Winery Late Harvest Pinot Blanc 2010 Oliver, Okanagan Valley $18 for 200ml 13.5%This light and bright wine shimmers in the glass, with crisp lemon, focused lime and apricot fuzz, with a touch of clay. Liquid Okanagan sunshine. 88 points.Thornhaven Estates Decadence 2011 Summerland, Okanagan Valley *$17 for 375ml 12.5%This late harvest Pinot Noir opens with mild strawberry jam and holiday cranberry. Nice light freshness, with a slightly bitter cocoa note on the finish. 87 points.Clos du Soleil Saturn 2011 Similkameen Valley *29 for 375ml 14.5%More expansive – blousier LH style, with deep peach, apricot and flower notes. Intense lime blossom and orange on the palate into a lingering savoury finish. 100% Sauvignon Blanc. 90 points. BOTRYTISIf you can’t remember the term [bot-RYE-tis], call it by its kingly nickname, Noble Rot. This beneficial fungus develops on grapes under certain humid and warm conditions. When carefully cultivated, botrytis causes the grape to shrivel into moldy raisins (yum!), concentrating and intensifying both sugar and flavour. In addition, the acid levels remain high, which prevents the resulting wines from being cloyingly sweet. Wines often carry honeysuckle flavours, and a savoury/ pleasantly bitter component on the finish.Quails’ Gate Winery Optima 2011 Okanagan Valley $30 for 375ml 11%This stunning late harvest TBA (totally botrytis affected) wine is BC’s closest example to Sauternes. Flinty, ashen peach fuzz, rich ripe and dried apricot, marmalade and golden raisins. Very lengthy and satisfying – a complex and savoury delight. 91 points.FORTIFIEDDuring fermentation from sugary grape juice into dry alcoholic wine, these wines were interrupted with the addition of spirit. The high alcohol spirit stops fermentation, leaving a whack of sugar in the wine, and resulting in a higher alcohol content. Port-style wines are made this way (*remember – true Port only comes from Portugal).La Frenz Liqueur Muscat NV Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley *$22 for 375ml 20%Sold out at the winery, this very small production wine may still be available on select private store shelves and is worth seeking out. This special wine was made in a traditional solera system, dating back to the Muscat’s first vintage in 1999. Each vintage has a small percentage of the lineage preceding it. Layered notes of caramel, burnished orange, bruléed sugar, spice over citrus peel-pear pie. Very smooth and intense, with lifted citrus acid on the lingering finish. Lovely. 91 points.Gray Monk Estate Winery Odyssey III NV Kelowna, Okanagan Valley *$20 for 500ml 19%This fortified 100% Merlot is round and ripe with soft plum, cocoa and kirsch notes. Fuller body, gently restrained sweetness and lightly dusty tannins ending with a spicy finish. Pass the chocolate! 87 points. ICEWINEHave you ever squeezed marbles? Sounds crazy right? Welcome to icewine. This is the perilous struggle of Late Harvest wines x weeks more. This precious elixir is made from hand harvested grapes naturally frozen on the vine, and harvested – most likely – in the middle of a frigid Okanagan winter night. Only a few drops of highly concentrated juice come from each frozen bunch. The conditions required to produce icewine are harsh, regulated and strict: grapes must be frozen naturally on the vine at a minimum temperature of -8 degrees Celsius, for a minimum of 4 hours and at least 35 Brix sweetness. The grapes must be picked and pressed immediately – usually in the vineyard (don’t forget it’s below freezing!). We’re spoiled in BC with a climate suitable for annual icewine production. For the majority of the globe, icewine is a rare delicacy.Tinhorn Creek Oldfield Series Kerner Icewine 2011 Okanagan Valley $30 for 200ml 13.3%*read about EAT participating in Tinhorn’s Jan. 2013 icewine harvest hereThis is as light and fresh as an icewine can possibly be. Kerner shows off its aromatics here, with white flowers, honey and apricot on the nose, and ripe pear, dried mango and candied citrus sweetness on the palate. 89 points.Stoneboat Vineyards Verglas 2010 Oliver, Okanagan Valley *$33 for 200ml 9.2%Intensity without overpowering. The grapes for this icewine were totally botrytis affected, adding layers of complexity to an already highly evolved and intense wine. Silken sweet honey, orange and ripe apricot, balanced by pure lime zest acidity and complemented by a touch of savoury intrigue. Impressive length. 91 points.Mission Hill Family Estate Winery Reserve Vidal Icewine 2011 Okanagan Valley $50 for 375ml 8%Vidal is a winter hardy hybrid grape, more oft seen in Ontario than in BC. Here it is turned into honeyed, ripe tropical fruit – lush pear, pineapple and bright red grapefuit acidity. Rich and weighty and luxuriously sweet. 89 points. MISCELLANYThese adventurous dessert wines demonstrate the will of BC winemakers to try new things. From honey to berries, cooking to freezing, the specialized wines below make a statement and a unique gift. They may be a bit harder to find, but the hunt will be rewarded.Averill Creek Vineyard+ Cowichan Black 2010 Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island *$18 for 375ml 18%Wild Vancouver Island blackberries are naturally fermented to 18% alcohol. Medium sweet, this wine is a nice lighter option for those with less devout sweet teeth. Blackberries and strawberries in abundance on the nose and palate: cotton candied. Dusty plum and grape candied flavours, with bright, lifted acid. 88 points.Elephant Island Orchard Wines Framboise 2011 Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley *$20 for 375ml 16%Rich, concentrated raspberry in a powerful, smooth elixir. Imagine the pure essence of summer warmed raspberries, macerated in pure sugar and doused with spirit. Remarkable. Dark chocolate fans take note. 89 points.Unsworth Vineyards Ovation 2010 Mill Bay, Vancouver Island *$24 for 500ml 19%This solera-style wine is a blend of Marechal Foch from 2008, 2009 and 2010, fortified with grape alcohol and aged in oak. The result is akin to boozy Christmas cake – with spiced plums, cassis and dried fruits. 87 points.Sea Cider Pomona Saanich Peninsula, Vancouver Island *$25 for 375ml 16%Inspired by the Roman Goddess of Apples, Pomona is a concentrated elixir handcrafted by freezing, then slowly fermenting crabapple juice at cool temperatures. Silken apples, citrus, toffee orange and caramel. Intense and very sweet. 90 points.Venturi-Schulze Brandenburg #3 2008 Cobble Hill, Vancouver Island *$35 for 375ml 7.5%A beautiful wine, interesting and complex. Venturi-Schulze has earned their cult-coveted reputation by going to extraordinary lengths to make idiosyncratic wines. After Madelaine Sylvaner grapes are crushed, the juice is simmered for several days, concentrating the flavours and the sugar, then cooled. Fermentation can last up to a year, until the yeast stops naturally, leaving a touch of residual sugar. The wine is aged in French oak and then is bottled with no preservatives and no sulphites. Off-dry and earthy with caramel, spice, roasted nuts and cassis. 90 points.Tugwell Creek Meadery Wassail Blush 2011 Sooke, Vancouver Island *$27 for 375ml 14%Estate loganberries and wildflower honey are aged in French oak and fortified for this sweet blushing mead. Soft berry, floral and citrus notes. Lifted acidity on the finish balances out the honeyed sweetness. 88 points.Vista D’oro Farm & Winery D’oro 2007 Fraser Valley *$50 for 500ml 17%This contemplative walnut wine follows a centuries old recipe from northern France for Vin de Noix, and uses walnuts harvested from the farm’s 100+ year old walnut trees. Marechal Foch, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Green Walnuts and Okanagan Brandy come together in this sultry, plush port-like wine. Deep raisins, dark chocolate cherries, earthy walnuts and dusty aged oak. 89 points. DRINKing Guide:*Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores. Price is suggested retail price. All other wines are available through BC Liquor Stores. BC WinesUnsworth VineyardsWines of Worth SHARE VIA: Facebook Twitter Pinterest Written By: Treve Ring Treve Ring is a wine writer, editor, judge, consultant and certified sommelier, and has been with EAT Magazine for over a decade.\r\n\r\nIn addition to her work with EAT, she is a Wine Critic and National Judge for ... Read More You may also like Chefs / Culture / Destinations / Elsewhere / Travel May 7, 2019 An Introduction to Letters from Lyon to EAT I have spent my career thus far with a few goals in mind: climb the brigade of each kitchen I set foot in, put in my time and become “chef”. ... Read More Elsewhere / Travel March 23, 2017 April: Up Island News “The French say; “you never grow old at the table”, so let’s sit down, savour wonderful food together- and stop time.” ... Read More Elsewhere / Restaurants February 27, 2017 An Interview with Chef Renee Lavallee of Canteen in Nova Scotia Chef Renee Lavallee has worked in restaurants across the globe, and now calls Dartmouth, Nova Scotia home. After opening the successful sandwich shop ... Read More Elsewhere / Restaurants November 25, 2016 What’s up at the new Toscano’s Mediterranean Grill Last winter the venerable Toscano’s Trattoria in Comox changed hands. With Chef Kevin Frisch (formerly of Atlas Cafe and Locals, two highly ... Read More Elsewhere / First Look September 28, 2016 Biblio Taco Opens in Cumberland (home of the mountain biker) Ask a mountain biker if they have been to Cumberland, BC and you will probably see their eyes light up, ears go back like a dogs do and then a ... Read More Elsewhere / Reporter September 7, 2016 The Tofino Buzz | Sept & Oct 2016 Winding into fall is probably my favourite time of year in Tofino. The weather is still amazing, and there’s time to appreciate the town at a ... Read More Comments are closed.
Chefs / Culture / Destinations / Elsewhere / Travel May 7, 2019 An Introduction to Letters from Lyon to EAT I have spent my career thus far with a few goals in mind: climb the brigade of each kitchen I set foot in, put in my time and become “chef”. ... Read More
Elsewhere / Travel March 23, 2017 April: Up Island News “The French say; “you never grow old at the table”, so let’s sit down, savour wonderful food together- and stop time.” ... Read More
Elsewhere / Restaurants February 27, 2017 An Interview with Chef Renee Lavallee of Canteen in Nova Scotia Chef Renee Lavallee has worked in restaurants across the globe, and now calls Dartmouth, Nova Scotia home. After opening the successful sandwich shop ... Read More
Elsewhere / Restaurants November 25, 2016 What’s up at the new Toscano’s Mediterranean Grill Last winter the venerable Toscano’s Trattoria in Comox changed hands. With Chef Kevin Frisch (formerly of Atlas Cafe and Locals, two highly ... Read More
Elsewhere / First Look September 28, 2016 Biblio Taco Opens in Cumberland (home of the mountain biker) Ask a mountain biker if they have been to Cumberland, BC and you will probably see their eyes light up, ears go back like a dogs do and then a ... Read More
Elsewhere / Reporter September 7, 2016 The Tofino Buzz | Sept & Oct 2016 Winding into fall is probably my favourite time of year in Tofino. The weather is still amazing, and there’s time to appreciate the town at a ... Read More
2024 Issue / EAT Magazine News Jan 7, 2024 Fare Well IT WITH WITH PROFOUND sadness and regret that I write this final letter in the final issue of EAT magazine. The decision to cease publication is one ... Read More
2024 Issue / Magazine Jan 7, 2024 January | February 2024 Issue 28-01 The final issue of EAT magazine available ... Read More
Travel Feb 19, 2013 Gourmet Backpacking Part 2: Spain The train to Spain was a little insane. It was hot, uncomfortable and nobody spoke a word of English. Tired and famished after a long journey that ... Read More