World Malbec Day

April 17 marks the 4^th annual World Malbec Day. While malbec is grown the world over, the day was established by Wines of Argentina to celebrate the country’s flagship grape, as well as raise awareness around the globe of the quality and variety of wines produced by Argentina. Though the black, densely flavoured grape is native to the south west of France (you’ll recall it is one of the six players in the Bordeaux blend), it has fallen steeply in plantings and popularity in France; today the black plum, savoury and tannic wines of Cahors are the main centre for the grape in its native homeland.

Certainly malbec’s star has risen at a comet-rate as of late, propelled into superstardom by Argentina’s thriving exports. Here, tucked against or astride the sunbaked Andes, the grape typically showcases fullbodied and ballsy fruit-forward flavours of blueberry and black plum, backed up by cocoa, smoke and spice and laid out across a velvety texture. Over the past decade, the approachability, ripe fruit and low price point of Argentine malbec rapidly gained it many fans in North America and around the globe. So much so, that today malbec is almost entirely identified with Argentine wine – to the detriment of other grapes that are also successfully grown *read syrah.

Today the country’s push towards quality and investigation into terroir have seen plantings reach great heights – literally. Argentina has more high-altitude vineyards than anywhere else on the planet. Malbec benefits from the cooler evenings at higher elevation, with the greater diurnal shift increasing acidity and preserving fresh fruit. Approximately 75% of the world’s malbec plantings are in Argentina, with the majority planted in and around Mendoza. I predict, as our collective shift towards place and provenance continues, we will see more and more producers identifying site and altitude on the labels, vs. the catch-all Mendoza – too large and generalized to provide inquisitive consumers with useful details. Sub-apps of Mendoza that you may see include Upper Mendoza River, Uco Valley, San Rafael and Lujan de Cuyo. Outside of Mendoza, keep an eye out for San Juan and La Rioja to the north, the high altitude plantings in Argentina’s far northeastern corner of Catamarca, Jujuy and Salta, and the southern regions of Patagonia, the Río Negro and Neuquén – the latter trio especially promising for cool climate grapes.

In 2014 World Malbec Day celebrations will include events in 55 cities in 44 countries worldwide. Since World Malbec Day is an Argentine invention, this week’s DRINK This will focus exclusively on malbecs from that country, save for an atypical rosé example from BC.

Locavore

River Stone Estate Winery
Malbec Rosé 2012
Okanagan Valley, BC
*$20

Though the 2012 Rosé will be hard to come by now (they only make approximately 100 cases of this wine annually), the 2013 will be released May 1, 2014, so this fuller bodied, plumy and salty rose will soon be yours again. Ted and Lorraine Kane’s vineyard and winery is located south of the mighty McIntyre Bluff and just north of Oliver on deep rock and glacier-laid gravel soils – prime grape growing territory. Deeply hued, there is ample rhubarb, juicy plum, cranberry, raspberry and herbal notes here, with hints of strawberry blossoms on the nose and finish. Bright acidity and slight tannins mean this will stand up to chicken burgers, grilled tuna or salmon steaks just fine. A boldly unique rosé that I look forward to tasting every year. 87 points.

Cellar Dweller

Trapiche
Terroir Series Suarez Lastra Vineyard Malbec 2010
Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina
$45  +309476

This is one of a series of single vineyard premium malbecs from Trapiche. Keep a watchful eye out for Orellana De Escobar and Ambrosia as well. Of course, being wines of terroir, all three in the trio are individual and special reflections of site. This locale is drilled down to Altamira, La Consulta, San Carlos, Valle de Uco, Mendoza and from a lofty altitude of 1072 meters. This pedigreed and pioneering winery has been making wine in Mendoza for more than 130 years. Trapiche was also a leader in the introduction of French vines into the country, the production of varietal wines, the import of French oak barrels and the use of stainless steel tanks.

This luring malbec opens with aromatic ripe black fruit and dark flowers, grilled wood and light graphite. The finely smoked palate is rich with cassis, figs, espresso, tobacco, ripe and dried blackberry and a bitter chocolate blueberry note on the finish. Fresh and succulent acidity throughout, ensuring the drinkability of the wine today (where’s the beef?) even though tannins are structured and sternly steadfast. This full-bodied wine will continue to reward in the years to come. 90 points.

Budgeteer

Terra Andina
Malbec 2012
Mendoza, Argentina
$16  +326108

Heaps of sweet clove, ripe plum and baked blackberry here, over a full, round palate broken with a determined gherkin pickle sweetness and peppery spice. Root beer and plum finish it off.  Crowd pleaser for extended family beef BBQ? 86 points.

Adventurer

Bodega Catena
Malbec 2011
Mendoza, Argentina
$23  +478727

The adventure here is less on you, and more on the producer – the fearless and inquisitive Bodega Catena. Nicola Catena sailed from Italy to Argentina in 1898, escaping the bleakness of Europe for a plentiful and promising new land. He planted his first malbec vineyard in 1902 in Mendoza and when his son Domingo inherited the winery he became one of the largest vineyard holders in Mendoza. Domingo’s son, Nicolas, continued the family tradition and was instrumental in the country’s push towards quality wine. He pioneered high-elevation plantings in the Andes, searching for both altitude and poor soils to force vine struggle. He was also one of the first to pay close attention to older, often neglected malbec vineyards and the source of these gnarly old vines for high quality wine.

Though this wine is one of their entry tiers, the same attention to detail is invested. This malbec is sourced from high mountain vines, and is a blend of 4 different vineyards. The result is a fresh and savoury red with anise, black plum and ink aromas. The fine grained tannins and juicy acidy balance the firm and tight black fruit on the palate. I appreciate the quiet confidence of the wine. It doesn’t shout at you, but it brims with power nonetheless. The pencil shavings finish lingers with espresso dust. 89 points.

No Wineos

Crannóg Ales
Back Hand of God Stout
*At brewery or select outlets on tap

There are a few beers on tap that are so deep with flavour and so memorable, that when I see them, I simply can’t think about ordering anything else. Back Hand of God Stout is one of them. Crannóg is Canada’s first Certified Organic farmhouse microbrewery – one of only a handful of such breweries in the world. Located on a 10 acre farm in Sorrento, they brew only unfiltered, unpasteurized ales using exclusively organic ingredients and no rice, corn or sugars. I first tasted their full flavoured ales at Victoria’s annual Great Canadian Beer Festival a number of years ago. They were new to me then even though they’ve been around for over a decade because their beers are only available in draught. Since freshness and locality is a major quality concern, they prefer to drive the kegs to their lucky final destination themselves, through they do have a couple of trusted distributors to transport beer slightly further afield (like Vancouver, for example).

Back Hand of God is thick in hue and flavour, dark and absorbent, like a black hole. Dry and silken smooth, with flowing espresso, dark malt and bitter darker chocolate, fresh and cleansing enough to easily down a pint or two, and potent enough to lose yourself in. Outstanding, and possibly life-changing – like facing down the back hand of God, I presume.

DRINK This : Each week Treve highlights 5 timely and tasty picks. Her weekly choices include Locavore (BC wines), Cellar Dweller (wines to lay down for a while for maximum enjoyment), Budgeteer (wallet-friendly bottles under $15), Adventurer (wines for geeks, enlightening or pushing the envelope) and No Wineos (a non-wine pro-alcoholic beverage). So what are you waiting for? DRINK This!

DRINKing Guide: How to use our purchasing information.
*Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores. All other wines are available through BC Liquor Stores. The price is suggested retail price, and may fluctuate depending on source. Wines are scored out of 100 points.